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Flat Blade Oars
  • Flat Blade Oars
Flat Blade Oars
Traditional Oars

Flat Blade Oars

$418.00 USD
WoodAsh

Our most popular oar. Well-suited for dinghies, skiffs, and rowboats.

The oar that most people picture when they think of rowing. The flat blade is our most popular oar — and has been for over 160 years — because it is honest, capable, and correct for a very wide range of boats and conditions.

The flat blade is the natural choice for dinghies, skiffs, rowboats, and flat-bottomed hulls of all kinds. Where spoon blades earn their efficiency advantage on rounded hulls, flat-bottomed boats see little benefit from the added complexity of a spoon. What they benefit from is an oar that is well-made, properly sized, and beautifully balanced to take whatever a day on the water brings. That is exactly what the flat blade delivers.

Available online in lengths from 5' through 10'6", and in custom lengths up to 21', the flat blade covers more applications than any other oar we make. It is the right choice for a dinghy tender, a Maine peapod, traditional dories, a gunning float, or anywhere a reliable, uncomplicated oar is what the situation calls for.

Each pair is handcrafted to order in our shop on the banks of the Penobscot River in Orono, Maine. They are shaped, finished, and leathered the same way we have been doing it since 1858.

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Specs

  • Blade profile: traditional flat blade.
  • Grip: unvarnished. Read why here.
  • Available lengths: 5' through 10'6". Custom sizes up to 21' available, email info@shawandtenney.com. Our oar sizing formula and chart is linked below, under the "add to cart" button.
  • Wood species: available in spruce or ash. Spruce is light and soft, and a much nicer rowing experience, while ash is heavy and hard. Read more here.
  • Finish: one hand-brushed sealer coat of light varnish, followed by two dips in the varnish tank. Hand-sanded between coats. This process equals approximately seven hand-applied coats. Glossy finish only. The best finish in the business.
  • Leathering: highly recommended, either by us or sew your own. Bronze oarlocks will ruin the varnish on the first row without leathers.
  • Engraving: available on the end of the blade only. Instructions available here, priced per oar.
  • Handcrafted to order in Orono, Maine.
  • Lead time: Approximately three to four weeks in the off season, and up to six to seven weeks in the busy season. If you have a hard deadline, please let us know.

Oar Sizing

How To Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.

The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.

Oar Size Chart

Span Oar Length Order Size
36 71 6'
38 75 6'
40 79 6'6"
42 82 6'6"
44 86 7'
46 89 7'6"
48 93 7'6"
50 96 8'
52 100 8'6"
54 104 8'6"
56 107 9'
58 111 9'
60 114 9'6"
62 118 10'
64 121 10'
66 125 10'6"
68 129 11'
70 132 11'
72 136 12'
74 139 12'

Paddle Sizing

For traditional wooden paddles the ideal length for the Stern paddler is the bridge of your nose or 6 inches less than your height. For the bow paddler the paddle reaching the cleft of your chin or 9 inches less than your height is correct.

For our Racine paddle if you are over 5’6” tall select the 63-1/2” length and the shorter paddle if you are under5’-6”tall.

When paddling solo we typically recommend a bow length paddle. For Canadian style solo most paddlers prefer an even shorter paddle.

For paddling canoes when standing (yes our mother let us do this) a 69 inch or 72 inch paddle is usually about right.

Select Your Wood
Ash

Ash

Our workhorse hardwood, ash is extremely durable and tough, and well suited to a wide variety of paddling and rowing conditions. A heavier wood with moderate flex, ash holds up well to whitewater and rocky conditions. Open grain of the wood makes for a very attractive paddle or oar.
Spruce

Spruce

Our lightest and only softwood, spruce is an excellent choice for an all-around, every day paddle and almost all rowing oars. We don’t recommend spruce for whitewater, or for conditions where the paddle or oars comes in contact with rocks and other obstacles. Spruce is only available in a varnish finish.
Soft Maple

Soft Maple

A durable, closed grained hardwood with a moderate flex, soft maple is usually slightly lighter than ash, and therefore excellent in a wide variety of conditions.
Cherry

Cherry (Premium Wood)

Few woods rival the beauty and characteristics of cherry. A deep red, closed grained hardwood, cherry is strong and durable for virtually every paddling condition. Reasonably light, with very nice flex, cherry is one of our favorites.
Bird's Eye Maple

Bird's Eye Maple (Premium Wood)

With strength and flex attributes nearly identical to curly maple, bird’s eye maple features a distinctive pattern that resembles tiny, swirling eyes. And like walnut, bird’s eye maple boasts a beautiful visual appeal both on and off the water.
Curly Maple

Curly Maple (Premium Wood)

Sometimes called tiger or ribbon maple, curly maple features a translucence that can only be described as radiant. Grown here, in Maine, curly maple is also a hard wood — often lighter than ash, and often more flexible. A durable option, curly maple is only available in a varnish finish.
Mahogany

Mahogany (Premium Wood)

An imported hardwood well suited for boathooks and inlaid tips on oars and double blade paddles. Most often selected when your boat is trimmed in Mahogany.
Walnut

Walnut (Premium Wood)

Similar to cherry in its weight and flex, walnut’s deep chocolate brown, with beautiful grain, make it an attractive choice both on and off the water.
Sassafras

Sassafras (Premium Wood)

Favored most by the paddling craftsmen at Shaw & Tenney, sassafras is nearly as light as spruce, but as a hardwood, is far more resilient. Valued for its wonderful flex, sassafras continually darkens over time, and always maintains its beautiful patina.

Our History

While technically founded in 1858, this hand painted sign dug up from the archives shows that the company was actually doing business two years before that. Either way, we're still the second oldest manufacturer of marine products in the United States today.

From our simple workshop on the banks of the Penobscot River, we still employ time-honored manufacturing traditions. Here, a long time Shaw & Tenney craftsman sculpts an oar on a drum sander that’s more than 100 years old.

Our oars and paddles are all made to order right here, in our Orono, Maine workshop. Meticulously hand sewing oar leathers takes years (and years) of practice.

We’ve been dipping our paddles the same way for over 100 years. Of course there are probably easier ways to do it, but we’re convinced there’s no better.