Shaw and Tenney - Maine Crafted Since 1858

How to Refinish Old Oars

How to Refinish Old Oars

Are your beloved Shaw and Tenney wooden oars showing signs of wear and age? Don't let their charm fade away – with a little care and effort, you can restore them to their former glory. In this guide, we'll walk you through the steps to refinish your old oars, bring back their shine and ensure they're ready for many more adventures on the water.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

Before you embark on this journey of restoration, gather the necessary materials:

Sandpaper: Start with medium-grit sandpaper (80 or 120) to remove the old finish and imperfections. Follow up with a fine-grit sandpaper (around 220) for a smooth finish.

Marine-Grade Spar Varnish: Choose a high-quality varnish designed for marine environments. This will protect your oars from the elements and give them a lustrous shine.

Brushes: Opt for a high-quality brush designed for varnish application. A foam brush or a natural bristle brush works well.

Protective Gear: Wear safety glasses and a mask to protect yourself from dust and fumes. Make sure the area you're working in is well ventilated.

Step 2: Sand the Oars

Remove the Old Finish: Begin by sanding the oars with the medium-grit sandpaper. Sand along the grain of the wood to remove the old varnish, paint, or any imperfections. This will provide a clean and smooth surface for the new varnish to adhere to.

Smooth the Surface: Once the old finish is removed, switch to the fine-grit sandpaper. This step will refine the wood surface and ensure an even application of varnish. Sanding with the grain is crucial to maintaining the oars' natural appearance.

Step 3: Apply Varnish

Prepare the Surface: Wipe down the oars with a damp cloth to remove any sanding dust. This will ensure a clean and dust-free surface for varnish application.

Stir the Varnish: Gently stir the marine-grade spar varnish to avoid creating air bubbles. You may want to thin the first coat or two of varnish per the manufacturer's instructions.

Apply the First Coat: Using your chosen brush, apply a thin, even coat of varnish to the oars (but NOT the oar handles - link to article on why). Start from one end and work your way to the other, following the wood grain. Allow this coat to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, and be mindful of drips and runs. We recommend leaving the handles of the oars free from varnish (see our post on the Unvarnished Advantage for detailed info).  Leaving the handles unvarnished also allows you to hang the oars from the handle to allow them to dry with out ruining the finish.

Sand Between Coats: Once the first coat is dry, lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper. This step helps the subsequent coats adhere better. Wipe away any sanding dust before applying the next coat of varnish.

Build Up Coats: Repeat the varnish application and sanding process for 3-4 more coats, or until you achieve the desired level of shine. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.

Step 4: Final Touches

After you apply the final coat of varnish and allow it to dry completely, the wooden oars will transform. The varnish not only adds a glossy finish but also protects the wood from water, UV rays, and other environmental factors. Refinishing your old Shaw and Tenney oars is a rewarding endeavor that honors their history and craftsmanship. Restore these timeless wooden oars to their former glory so they can accompany you on many future adventures. Grab your sandpaper, varnish, and brushes – it's time to make your oars shine again!

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How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.

The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.

How to Size Your Paddle

For traditional wooden paddles the ideal length for the Stern paddler is the bridge of your nose or 6 inches less than your height. For the bow paddler the paddle reaching the cleft of your chin or 9 inches less than your height is correct.

For our Racine paddle if you are over 5’6” tall select the 63-1/2” length and the shorter paddle if you are under5’-6”tall.

When paddling solo we typically recommend a bow length paddle. For Canadian style solo most paddlers prefer an even shorter paddle.

For paddling canoes when standing (yes our mother let us do this) a 69 inch or 72 inch paddle is usually about right.

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